Practical Project I – JSS2 Fashion and Garment Making Lesson Note (Third Term)

A simple native top is a loose top, such as a buba or a short-sleeved native shirt, made mainly from rectangles of fabric.

Behavioural objectives

1. State why a simple native top is a good first project.
2. List the materials needed to make a simple native top.
3. Take the five main measurements for a native top.
4. Cut the body, sleeves and neckline of a native top.
5. Prepare a neck facing using paper stay.
6. Arrange the sewing steps in the correct order.

Why make a simple native top?

A simple native top is a good first project because it uses easy shapes and teaches neat neckline work.

• Simple shapes: most native tops are squares and rectangles, so they are easier to cut than English shirts with curves.
• Versatility: it can be worn with trousers or a wrapper.
• Practice: it teaches you to handle larger pieces of fabric.
• Neckline skill: it teaches you to make a neat “V” or round neckline.
• Identity: native wear is worn for weddings, church services and the office.

What materials are needed for a native top?

The materials are fabric and notions, which are the small items used to complete the garment.

• Fabric: 2 to 3 yards of Ankara or Guinea brocade.
• Cotton: the best choice because it stays flat when pinned.
• Thread: matching thread for sewing.
• Button or press stud: one medium-sized fastener, which is optional.
• Paper stay: an interlining ironed onto the facing to make the neck firm.

What measurements are taken for a native top?

Five main measurements are taken: shoulder, chest, length, sleeve length and neck.

Native wear is loose, so few measurements are needed, but each one must be correct.

1. Shoulder: from one shoulder bone to the other across the back.
2. Chest or bust: around the fullest part of the chest, with the “two-finger” rule for ease.
3. Length: from the shoulder down to where the top will end.
4. Sleeve length: from the shoulder down to the elbow or wrist.
5. Neck circumference: around the neck, not too tight.

How is the pattern drafted?

Drafting means marking the pattern shapes, either directly on the fabric or by using a block pattern.

• Block pattern: a basic ready-made pattern used as a guide for new garments.
• Body: one large rectangle, folded to give the front and back.
• Sleeves: two smaller rectangles.
• Neckline: a small “U” or “V” shape cut at the centre-top.

How are the pieces cut?

The pieces are cut from fabric folded into four, so the front and back are cut together.

1. Fold the fabric into four.
2. Cut the body and sleeve pieces from your marked pattern.
3. Cut the back neckline first, keeping it shallow.
4. Separate the front and back pieces.
5. Cut the front neckline deeper than the back.

• Why the front is deeper: the front neck sits lower on the chest, so it needs more room to be comfortable.

What is a facing and how is it prepared?

A facing is a shaped piece of fabric sewn to a raw edge and turned inside to finish it neatly.

A floppy neck spoils a native top, so the facing is used to make the neckline firm.

1. Cut a piece of fabric in the exact shape of the neckline.
2. Iron paper stay onto this piece.
3. Pin the facing to the neckline with right sides together.
4. Sew around the curve.
5. Notch the curve by making tiny cuts, so it turns inside smoothly.
6. Turn the facing to the inside and press it flat.

What is the order of sewing a native top?

The order of sewing is neckline, shoulder seams, sleeves, side seams and hemming.

1. Neckline: finish the neck with the facing first. It is the hardest part, so do it while the fabric is still light.
2. Shoulder seams: join the front and back pieces at the shoulders.
3. Sleeves: sew each sleeve to the body before the side seams. This is called flat-set.
4. Side seams: sew from the sleeve opening down the side.
5. Hemming: fold and sew the bottom edge and the sleeve edges.

• Slit: many native tops have an opening at the bottom sides for easy movement.
• Where to stop: stop the side seam about 4 to 5 inches before the bottom to leave the slit.

How is the native top finished?

The top is finished by pressing it with a hot iron to give crisp edges.

• Heavy press: press all seams, the neckline and the hems.
• Crisp edges: they are the sign of a good tailor in native wear.
• Fastener: sew on the button or press stud if the design needs one.
• Safety: handle the hot iron, pins and scissors with care.

Evaluation

1. Why is the back neckline cut shallower than the front?
2. What is the use of paper stay in a native top?
3. Name two fabrics suitable for making a simple native top.
4. State the order of sewing a native top.

Assignment

Draw the flat layout of a simple native top, label the body, sleeves and neckline, and list the five measurements needed.