Basic Sewing Processes II – Simple Embroidery or Decorative Stitches & Seam JSS1 Home Economics Lesson Note

SIMPLE EMBROIDERY OR DECORATIVE STITCHES AND SEAM

EMBROIDERY OR DECORATIVE STITCHES

These are used for decorating the garments. Some can also be used for finishing raw edges. Examples include:

1.  STEM STITCH: This is useful for outlining designs. To make:

 i.            Make the necessary design on fabric.

ii.            Insert the needle at the tip of the line to be stitched.

 iii.          Bring the needle out halfway down the space made before.

 iv.        The thread must be kept below the needle and the needle bought out exactly where the previous stitch finished.

 2.  CHAIN STITCH: This gives an appearance of even back-stitch on the wrong side. To make

i.            Make necessary designs.                                          

ii.            Fasten the thread using backstitch.

iii.            Bring out the needle and the thread a short distance away.

iv.            Repeat and continue until the end.

v.            Fasten the thread and cut it off.

 3.  SATIN STITCH: This is used for filling design, in making appliqué, etc. To make

i.            Draw the design or motif.

ii.            Insert the needle at one edge of the design.

iii.            Fasten with a few running stitches.

iv.            Then insert the needle again at the opposite edge.

v.         Return to the starting edge by passing the needle underneath the material.

vi.            Repeat following the outline of the design.

vii.            Make stitches close together and parallel. 

4.  FRENCH KNOTS: This can give a seeded effect of a motif or design. There are different variations of the French knots.

5.  HERRINGBONE STITCH: This is worked at two levels. It appears the same on both the right and wrong sides of the article.

SEAMS

A seam is a line of stitching that joins two or more pieces of cloth. There are different types of seams. It is important to choose the correct seam for any given article or part of a garment.

 POINTS TO CONSIDER WHEN CHOOSING A SEAM

1.  Kind of material or fabric being sewn. For instance, flat seams (e.g. run- and fell) are suitable for bulky materials like wool. A French seam is suitable for thin materials like silk.

2.  Purpose or use of the garment. For instance, flat seams are suitable for nightgowns.

3.  The person to wear the clothes. For instance, flat seams such as run-and-fell seams are suitable for children’s clothes that require constant washing.

4.  Position of the seam. For instance, the lapped seam is suitable for curved seams.

 TYPES OF SEAMS

1. OPEN OR PLAIN SEAM: This is the simplest and most commonly used seam. It has little bulk. It leaves raw edges that need to be finished or neatened. To make:

i.        Place the right side of the material together.

ii.  Mark seam line.

iii. Pin, tack, and sew from the wrong side of the fabric with proper seam allowance.

iv. Remove the tacking thread and press open the seam.

v.  Finish or neaten the raw edges.

B.    FRENCH SEAM: This is a flat seam. It does not show from the right side. All raw edges are completely enclosed. It is suitable for children’s clothes. To make:

ii.  Place the wrong sides of the fabric pieces together.

iii. Pin and tack along the fitting line (seam line).

iv. Remove pins and sew 3- 6mm nearer the edge than the seam line, using a back-stitch or machine.

v.  Trim the seam allowance carefully.

vi. Remove tacking and fold the fabric’s right sides together.

vii.     Roll the seam between fingers and thumbs until stitching is along the edge.

viii.            Tack and press into place.

ix. Sew along the seam line.

x.  Remove tacking and press.

2. RUN- AND- FELL SEAM: This lies flat with two rows of stitching on the right side of the garment. All raw edges are enclosed. Thus no extra neaten is required. It is strong and durable. To make:

i.        Place the wrong side fabric together and make a plain seam.

ii.  Press the seam to one side.

iii. Trim the underneath seam allowance to about 3mm.

iv. Trim the upper seam allowance to about 10mm.

v.  Fold and press the upper seam allowance over the lower one.

vi. Sew through all layers close to the folded edge. Press.

 3. LAPPED OR OVERLAID SEAM: This is visible on the right side. It is very strong. It is commonly used on curved or pointed seams where stitching from the inside is difficult. It is also used to give a decorative effect. To make:

i.                  Mark the lapping lines on each piece of fabric.

ii.                 Turn under the seam allowance on the overlay to the wrong side.

iii.               Press and tack into place.

iv.               Prepare the underlay.

v.               Place the overlay right side up on the underlay. Match fitting lines, as well as patterns.

vi.               Pin and tack the folded edge of the overlay onto the seam line of the underlay.

vii.              Sew 3- 6mm from the fold through all layers

viii.            Trim and neaten the seam allowances on the wrong side. 

Evaluation:

i.        What are embroidery stitches?

ii.  State five examples of embroidery stitches.

iii. Define seams and give the examples

Assignment:

Make a chart showing different types of decorative stitches.