Basic Sewing Processes II: Simple Embroidery or Decorative Stitches & Seam – JSS1 Home Economics Lesson Note (Third Term)

Embroidery or decorative stitches are stitches used to decorate garments, and some also finish raw edges. A seam is a line of stitching that joins two or more pieces of cloth.

Behavioural objectives

By the end of the lesson, students should be able to:

1. state the uses of embroidery or decorative stitches;
2. name and describe five decorative stitches;
3. define a seam;
4. list the points to consider when choosing a seam;
5. name and make the open, French, run-and-fell and lapped seams.

What are embroidery or decorative stitches?

Embroidery or decorative stitches are hand stitches worked on cloth to decorate a garment or article.

• Decoration: they add designs and patterns to garments, table covers and pillow cases.
• Outlining: some stitches draw the outline of a design.
• Filling: some stitches fill in a motif or make appliqué.
• Finishing: some stitches also neaten raw edges.

What are the types of decorative stitches?

Five common decorative stitches are stem stitch, chain stitch, satin stitch, French knots and herringbone stitch.

1. Stem stitch

Stem stitch is a stitch used for outlining designs.

1. Make the necessary design on the fabric.
2. Insert the needle at the tip of the line to be stitched.
3. Bring the needle out halfway down the space made before.
4. Keep the thread below the needle and bring the needle out exactly where the previous stitch finished.
5. Repeat to the end of the line and fasten off.

2. Chain stitch

Chain stitch is a stitch that forms a line of linked loops on the right side and looks like even back-stitch on the wrong side.

1. Draw the design line on the fabric.
2. Fasten the thread at the start of the line and bring the needle out on the line.
3. Insert the needle at the same point and bring it out a short distance along the line.
4. Keep the thread under the needle tip to form a loop, then pull the thread through gently.
5. Repeat, starting each new stitch inside the last loop, until the end.
6. Hold the last loop down with a tiny stitch, fasten the thread and cut it off.

3. Satin stitch

Satin stitch is a stitch used for filling designs and making appliqué.

1. Draw the design or motif.
2. Insert the needle at one edge of the design.
3. Fasten with a few running stitches.
4. Insert the needle again at the opposite edge.
5. Return to the starting edge by passing the needle underneath the material.
6. Repeat, following the outline of the design.
7. Make the stitches close together and parallel.

4. French knots

French knots are small raised knots that give a seeded effect to a motif or design.

1. Bring the needle out at the point where the knot is wanted.
2. Wind the thread round the needle once or twice. Different numbers of winds give different knot sizes.
3. Insert the needle very close to the starting point.
4. Pull the thread through while holding the wind, so the knot sits on the fabric surface.

5. Herringbone stitch

Herringbone stitch is a crossed stitch worked at two levels, between two parallel lines.

1. Draw two parallel lines on the fabric.
2. Bring the needle out on the lower line at the left.
3. Insert the needle on the upper line a little to the right and take a small stitch towards the left.
4. Insert the needle on the lower line a little to the right and take a small stitch towards the left.
5. Repeat to the end. The stitches cross each other on the right side.

Summary table of decorative stitches

What is a seam?

A seam is a line of stitching that joins two or more pieces of cloth.

• Variety: there are different types of seams.
• Choice: the correct seam must be chosen for each article or part of a garment.

What should you consider when choosing a seam?

Four points guide the choice of a seam: the fabric, the purpose of the garment, the wearer and the position of the seam.

1. Kind of material or fabric being sewn: flat seams (e.g. run-and-fell) are suitable for bulky materials like wool. A French seam is suitable for thin materials like silk.
2. Purpose or use of the garment: flat seams are suitable for nightgowns.
3. The person who will wear the clothes: flat seams such as run-and-fell seams are suitable for children’s clothes that need constant washing.
4. Position of the seam: the lapped seam is suitable for curved seams.

What are the types of seams?

Four common seams are the open or plain seam, the French seam, the run-and-fell seam and the lapped or overlaid seam.

1. Open or plain seam

An open or plain seam is the simplest and most commonly used seam.

• Bulk: it has little bulk.
• Raw edges: they are left showing inside and must be finished or neatened.

To make it:

1. Place the right sides of the material together.
2. Mark the seam line.
3. Pin, tack and sew from the wrong side of the fabric, with proper seam allowance.
4. Remove the tacking thread and press the seam open.
5. Finish or neaten the raw edges.

2. French seam

A French seam is a flat seam that encloses all raw edges and does not show from the right side.

• Neat finish: no extra neatening is needed.
• Use: it suits thin fabrics and children’s clothes.

To make it:

1. Place the wrong sides of the fabric pieces together.
2. Pin and tack along the fitting line (seam line).
3. Remove the pins and sew 3 to 6 mm nearer the edge than the seam line, using a back-stitch or the machine.
4. Trim the seam allowance carefully.
5. Remove the tacking and fold the fabric with right sides together.
6. Roll the seam between your fingers and thumbs until the stitching is along the edge.
7. Tack and press into place.
8. Sew along the seam line.
9. Remove the tacking and press.

3. Run-and-fell seam

A run-and-fell seam is a flat seam with two rows of stitching on the right side of the garment.

• Raw edges: all are enclosed, so no extra neatening is required.
• Strength: it is strong and durable.

To make it:

1. Place the wrong sides of the fabric together and make a plain seam.
2. Press the seam to one side.
3. Trim the underneath seam allowance to about 3 mm.
4. Trim the upper seam allowance to about 10 mm.
5. Fold and press the upper seam allowance over the lower one.
6. Sew through all layers close to the folded edge. Press.

4. Lapped or overlaid seam

A lapped or overlaid seam is a strong seam in which one piece of fabric is laid over another and stitched, so it shows on the right side.

• Use on curves: it is common on curved or pointed seams where stitching from the inside is difficult.
• Decoration: it can also give a decorative effect.

To make it:

1. Mark the lapping lines on each piece of fabric.
2. Turn under the seam allowance on the overlay to the wrong side.
3. Press and tack into place.
4. Prepare the underlay.
5. Place the overlay right side up on the underlay. Match the fitting lines, as well as the patterns.
6. Pin and tack the folded edge of the overlay onto the seam line of the underlay.
7. Sew 3 to 6 mm from the fold through all layers.
8. Trim and neaten the seam allowances on the wrong side.

How do the four seams compare?

Evaluation

1. What are embroidery or decorative stitches?
2. State five examples of embroidery stitches.
3. Define a seam and give examples.
4. List four points to consider when choosing a seam.
5. Name the seam that encloses all raw edges and does not show on the right side.

Assignment

Make a chart showing five decorative stitches. Write the name and one use of each stitch.