Review of Basic Skills – JSS1 Fashion and Garment Making Lesson Note (Third Term)

Review of basic skills is a look back at the three foundations of sewing: stitches, seams and patterns.

Behavioural objectives

1. Name and state the use of tacking, running stitch, backstitch and hemming.
2. Describe the plain seam, open seam and French seam.
3. Explain why a pattern is used and read the grain line, place on fold and notch symbols.
4. Apply the golden rules of sewing to keep work neat and accurate.
5. Compare stitches, seams and patterns.

What are the basic hand stitches?

A stitch is a single loop of thread made with a needle to join, hold or decorate fabric.

There are four basic hand stitches in this review: tacking, running stitch, backstitch and hemming.

• Tacking: a temporary stitch that holds fabric in place and is pulled out later.
• Running stitch: the simplest permanent stitch, used for gathering fabric and quick repairs.
• Backstitch: the strongest hand stitch, which looks and acts like a machine stitch.
• Hemming: a stitch that fixes the folded edge of a gown, skirt or trousers, with tiny stitches that show little on the outside.

How do we stop stitches from coming undone?

• Start: knot the thread before the first stitch.
• End: fasten off with a few small stitches in the same place so the work does not unravel.

What are the basic seams?

A seam is the line where two pieces of fabric are joined together by stitching.

There are three seams in this review: plain seam, open seam and French seam.

• Plain seam: the most common seam, sewn with the right sides of the fabric together.
• Open seam: a plain seam with the edges pressed open flat, which makes the garment neat and avoids bulky ridges.
• French seam: a neat seam that hides the raw, fuzzy edges inside a second row of stitching, good for thin fabrics and baby clothes.

How do we sew a French seam?

1. Place the two pieces with the wrong sides together.
2. Stitch a narrow seam near the edge.
3. Trim the seam allowance close to the stitching.
4. Press, then fold the fabric so the right sides are together and the stitched line is on the fold.
5. Stitch again, so the raw edges are enclosed.
6. Press the seam to one side.

What is a pattern?

A pattern is a paper template of a garment, used as a guide for cutting fabric.

Why do we use patterns?

• Saves fabric: pieces are planned before cutting, so less cloth is wasted.
• Gives a good fit: the pattern is made to the person’s measurements.

What are the common pattern symbols?

• Grain line (a line with an arrow at each end, ↔): shows the direction in which the pattern piece must lie, along the lengthwise threads of the fabric.
• Place on fold: means that edge is not cut, because the fabric is folded along it.
• Notches (small V-shapes or marks on the edge): help you match the pieces to be joined, such as the front and back.

What are the golden rules of sewing?

The golden rules are the habits that make work accurate, neat and professional.

1. Measure twice, cut once: check your tape measure reading before you pick up the scissors.
2. Press as you go: an iron is as important as a sewing machine, so press every seam flat as soon as it is sewn.
3. Allow ease when measuring: keep two fingers under the tape (the “two-finger rule”) so the clothes are not too tight.
4. Keep it clean: cut off all loose hanging threads.
5. Care for coloured fabric: dry coloured fabrics in the shade, because strong sun makes the colour fade.

How do stitches, seams and patterns compare?

A stitch is one loop of thread, a seam is a line of stitches joining fabric, and a pattern is the paper guide used before cutting.

Class review activity

• Identify the mistake: the teacher shows cloth with a crooked seam and loose threads. Students point out what went wrong, such as no pressing, wrong tension or no backstitching.
• Memory match: which stitch is used for the bottom of a skirt? Answer: hemming.

Evaluation

1. Which hand stitch is the strongest for repairing a ripped seam?
2. What is the difference between a plain seam and an open seam?
3. Why do we put notches on paper patterns?
4. Why should we dry coloured fabrics in the shade instead of the bright sun?

Assignment

In your notebook, list the four basic hand stitches and write one use for each. Then write the six steps of a French seam in order.