Practical Project LI – JSS1 Fashion and Garment Making Lesson Note (Third Term)

An elastic-waist garment is a skirt or pair of shorts that stays up on the waist by a band of elastic sewn inside a fabric casing.

Behavioural objectives

1. Define casing, seam, hem, inseam, crotch seam and backstitch.
2. List the materials and tools needed for an elastic-waist skirt or shorts.
3. Calculate the length of elastic and the width of fabric needed.
4. Describe, in order, the steps for making a simple skirt and simple shorts.
5. Make a skirt or shorts with a neat casing, seams and hem.

What is the Practical Project II?

Practical Project II is the making of a simple elastic-waist skirt or simple shorts to clothe the lower part of the body.

• Choice: you may make either garment.
• Fullness: extra fabric that gives room for movement, such as walking and sitting.
• Elastic: a stretchy band that lets the garment fit the waist without a zip.
• Link to the last project: you have already made a top, so you now practise seams and hems on the lower body.

What are the key terms in this project?

Seven terms are used in this project, and each one is explained below.

• Casing: a folded and stitched tunnel of fabric that holds the elastic.
• Seam: a line of stitches that joins two pieces of fabric.
• Right sides together: the printed or outer faces of two pieces placed facing each other before sewing.
• Neatening: finishing a raw edge so that it does not fray.
• Hem: the folded and stitched bottom edge of a garment.
• Crotch seam: the curved seam between the legs of shorts.
• Inseam: the seam that runs along the inside of each leg.
• Backstitch: sewing backwards over a few stitches at the start and end of a seam to lock it.

What materials and tools are needed?

You need fabric, elastic, a safety pin and a basic sewing kit.

• Fabric: 1.5 to 2 yards of cotton fabric, such as Ankara, Guinea or Calico.
• Elastic: about 1 inch wide, cut to your waist measurement minus 2 inches.
• Safety pin: pulls the elastic through the casing.
• Sewing kit: measuring tape, chalk, shears, pins and matching thread.

How do you make a simple elastic-waist skirt?

A simple skirt is a tube of fabric that is gathered at the waist by elastic.

1. Measuring: measure from the waist to the knee (length) and around the widest part of the hips.
2. Cutting: cut two rectangles. The width is the hip measurement plus 10 inches, so that you can walk easily.
3. Joining: place the pieces right sides together and sew the two side seams. Neaten the edges.
4. Waist casing: fold the top edge down by 1.5 inches and sew all round. Leave a 1-inch gap open.
5. Inserting elastic: clip a safety pin to one end of the elastic. Push it through the gap and all the way round the waist.
6. Closing: sew the two ends of the elastic together firmly. Then sew the gap in the fabric closed.
7. Hemming: fold and sew the bottom edge.

How do you make simple shorts?

Simple shorts are a short garment with two leg openings, joined by a curved crotch seam.

1. Drafting: use a simple shorts pattern. You get four pieces: two fronts and two backs.
2. Joining the curves: sew the two front pieces together along the curve. Do the same for the two back pieces.
3. Joining the sides: place the front and back right sides together. Sew the side seams.
4. Sewing the inseam: sew the inner leg seam in one long, continuous line.
5. Waistband: fold the top down to make a casing, as for the skirt, and insert the elastic.
6. Finishing: hem the two leg openings.

What is the difference between a simple skirt and simple shorts?

A skirt is one tube of fabric with no division between the legs. Shorts have two leg tubes joined by the crotch seam.

What tips help you succeed?

Three habits prevent the most common mistakes in this project.

• The crotch warning: do not sew the leg holes shut. Check your pieces before you start the machine.
• Elastic tension: make sure the elastic is not twisted inside the casing before you join the ends. Feel it with your fingers to check it lies flat.
• Backstitching: the waist is stretched when the garment is put on. Backstitch at the start and end of every seam so that it does not pop open.

How will the project be graded?

Your teacher marks the finished garment on four points.

1. The elastic: is it neatly tucked in, and does it stretch well?
2. The seams: are the side seams straight and neatened?
3. The hem: is the bottom edge level and even?
4. The fit: does the garment stay up comfortably on the waist?

What is the class practical activity?

The class practises measuring, cutting and making a casing before sewing the real garment.

• Today’s goal: measure your waist and cut your elastic.
• Casing practice: use a safety pin to pull a piece of string through a folded piece of cloth, to learn how a casing feels.
• Safety: keep pins and shears away from the edge of the table and close the safety pin after use.

Evaluation

1. What is a casing in sewing?
2. Why do we subtract 2 inches from the waist measurement when cutting elastic?
3. Which part of the shorts is the most difficult to sew?
4. Why are Ankara and Calico good choices for this project?

Assignment

A girl has a waist of 28 inches and hips of 36 inches. Work out the length of elastic she needs and the width measurement for her skirt using the rules in this note. Then list the seven steps for making the skirt in order.