Hair Styling II: Hair Styling Tools – SS1 Beauty & Cosmetology Lesson Note (Second Term)

Hair styling tools are the rollers, flat irons, curling irons and tongs used to shape hair into curls, waves or a straight finish. Rollers set wet hair under a hooded dryer, while flat irons and curling irons need dry hair. Heat protectant, the correct temperature and regular cleaning keep the client’s hair and your tools in good condition.

Behavioural objectives

By the end of the lesson, students should be able to:

• explain how roller setting works and why it is a safe way to curl hair;
• use a flat iron and a curling iron correctly and safely;
• test the heat of an iron with tissue paper;
• state the golden rules for protecting hair from heat damage;
• clean and store heated tools properly;
• choose the right tool for a style the client wants.

What is roller setting?

Rollers were used to curl hair long before curling irons became common. Roller setting is one of the safest ways to curl hair because it uses “indirect heat” (the hair dries slowly under a hooded dryer).

• The process: You take wet hair, apply a bit of “setting lotion,” and wrap it tightly around the roller.
• The direction: Always roll the hair downwards for a classic look. Make sure the ends of the hair are tucked in flat. Otherwise, you will get “fish hooks” (ugly, bent ends).
• Why use it? It gives the hair “body” and volume that lasts longer than a curling iron.

How do you use a hair straightener (flat iron)?

The flat iron is used to turn curly or wavy hair into a smooth, “silky” straight look. It is very popular for styling “human hair” weaves and relaxed hair.

• Sectioning is key: You cannot straighten a big chunk of hair at once. You must take small, thin “slices” of hair.
• The “one-pass” rule: Try to get the hair straight in one or two slow passes. Running the iron over the same hair 10 times will make it smell like it is burning and lead to breakage.
• Safety: Keep the iron away from the ears and the neck. A flat iron burn is very painful and leaves a scar.

How do you use curling irons and tongs?

While rollers are used on wet hair, curling irons are used only on 100% dry hair. If the hair is even a little bit damp, the heat will turn that water into steam and “cook” the hair from the inside.

• Barrel sizes:
  • Small barrels: For tight, “springy” curls.
  • Large barrels: For loose, “celebrity” waves.
• Testing the heat: Before touching the client’s hair, clamp the hot iron on a piece of white tissue paper. If the paper turns brown or burns, the iron is too hot.

How do you protect hair from heat damage?

As a professional, your first job is to protect the client’s natural hair. Heat damage is permanent. Once the hair is “fried,” it cannot be “un-fried”, and you have to cut it off.

The golden rules of heat styling

1. Always use a heat protectant: This is a spray or serum that acts like a “shield” for the hair.
2. Dry hair only: Never use a flat iron or curling tong on wet hair unless the tool is specially made for it (wet-to-dry irons).
3. Know the temperature:
   1. Fine/thin hair: Use low heat.
   2. Normal/relaxed hair: Use medium heat.
   3. Thick/coarse hair: Use high heat (but be careful).

How do you maintain your tools?

If you leave “hair grease” and “burnt hair” on your straightener, it will stop working well and start smelling bad.

• Cleaning: When the iron is unplugged and cool, wipe the plates with a damp cloth and a little rubbing alcohol to remove sticky product buildup.
• Storage: Do not let the hot plates touch the cord. It will melt the plastic and cause an electric shock later.

Which tool should you use for each style?

Class practical activity

• The roller challenge: We will practise rolling hair on a mannequin. Each student must put in 5 rollers. I will check for “straight parts” and “neat ends.”
• The tissue test: We will plug in a curling iron and practise testing the heat on tissue paper to see how “too hot” looks.

Evaluation

1. Why is roller setting one of the safest ways to curl hair?
2. Why must hair be 100% dry before you use a curling iron?
3. Describe how to test the heat of an iron before you use it on a client.
4. Which heat setting suits fine or thin hair, and which suits thick or coarse hair?
5. Name the tool you would use for big, bouncy volume and the tool you would use for “bone straight” hair.

Assignment

Write a short note on the golden rules of heat styling. Then explain how to clean and store a flat iron.