Hair Styling I: Traditional Styling – SS1 Beauty & Cosmetology Lesson Note (Second Term)

Traditional styling is the making of Nigerian hairstyles such as braids, cornrows and threaded styles (Kiko). Most of these are protective styles, which tuck the ends of the hair away from sun and dust and help the hair grow longer. A stylist must put the health of the hair before the beauty of the style.

Behavioural objectives

By the end of the lesson, students should be able to:

• explain what a protective style is;
• describe braids, twists and cornrows and name common cornrow styles;
• list the tools in a styling kit and state the use of each;
• explain why the edges must not be pulled too tight and how to tell when braids are too tight;
• describe how to finish a braided style.

What is traditional styling?

Traditional Nigerian hairstyles are famous all over the world. Most of these styles are “protective styles”. This means they tuck the ends of the hair away to protect them from the sun and dust, helping the hair grow longer.

The three most common techniques every SS1 student should know are:

1. Braiding (three-strand plaiting)
2. Cornrows (flat weaving)
3. Threaded styles (Kiko)

What are braids (three-strand plaiting)?

Braids are created by taking three equal sections of hair and crossing them over each other.

• Single braids: These are often called “box braids” because the hair is divided into square boxes before braiding.
• Twists: These use only two strands of hair instead of three. They are faster to do but may not last as long as braids.
• Care tip: Do not make the braids too heavy or too long, as the weight can pull out the client’s hair from the roots.

What are cornrows?

Cornrows (often called “weaving” in Nigeria) are braids that are attached flat to the scalp. They are the foundation for almost every other style, including “fixing” weaves and wigs.

• Common styles:
  1. All-back: Simple straight lines from the forehead to the neck.
  2. Suku: Cornrows that start from the edges and meet at the centre of the head.
  3. Didimoke: Cornrows that start from the centre and go down towards the ears.
• The secret to neatness: Use your “tail comb” to make very straight lines (parts). A style only looks professional when the lines are clean.

What tools are needed for styling?

To start styling, you need your “styling kit” ready:

• Tail comb: For making neat parts.
• Wide-tooth comb: For detangling before you start.
• Hair cream or edge control: To lay down “flyaway” hairs and make the braids look shiny.
• Sectioning clips: To hold the rest of the hair out of the way while you work on one part.
• Cutting comb: To trim any stray hairs on the finished braid.

Why must the edges be protected?

As a student of cosmetology, you must learn the health of the hair before the beauty of the style.

• The danger zone: The hair around the forehead and temples (the “edges”) is very thin and weak.
• The mistake: Many stylists pull the hair too tight to make it look “neat”. This causes traction alopecia (permanent hair loss).
• The rule: If the client’s forehead is tight or they have a headache, the braids are too tight. Loosen them immediately.

How do you finish the look?

A professional stylist finishes the style after the braiding is done:

1. Trimming: Use scissors to carefully cut off the “hairs” sticking out of the braids.
2. Hot water dip: For synthetic extensions (attachments), dipping the tips in hot water makes them straight and soft and prevents them from unravelling. Be very careful not to burn the client.
3. Mousse or oil spray: Apply a little foam or oil spray to give the style a fresh, “new” look.

Class practical activity

• The three-strand challenge: We will use pieces of coloured wool to practise the “over-and-under” movement of braiding. Once you master it with wool, we will move to the mannequin heads.
• Line drawing: Take a piece of paper and draw three different patterns for cornrows (for example, zig-zag, straight and curved).

Evaluation

1. What is a protective style?
2. State two differences between braids and twists.
3. Name three common cornrow styles and describe one of them.
4. List any four tools in a styling kit and state the use of each.
5. How can you tell that braids are too tight, and what should you do?

Assignment

Write short notes on the three steps used to finish a braided style, and state one safety precaution for each step where it applies.