Pressing Techniques SS1 Fashion and Garment Making Lesson Note

Ironing vs. Pressing (The Big Difference)

Many people use these words to mean the same thing, but in a sewing workshop, they are very different actions!

• Ironing: This is what you do to your school uniform. You slide the iron back and forth to remove wrinkles.
• Pressing: This is what we do while sewing. You lift the iron, place it down on a specific spot, hold it for a few seconds, and lift it up again.
  1. Why? Sliding the iron back and forth on a “fresh” seam can stretch the fabric out of shape. Pressing keeps the fabric exactly where it should be while making the seam flat and crisp.

The Golden Rule: Never sew across a seam that hasn’t been pressed!

The Pressing Cloth (Your Fabric’s Shield)

Have you ever ironed a black pair of trousers and noticed they started to look “shiny”? That is called scorching, and it happens when the heat is too direct.

• What it is: A pressing cloth is a simple piece of clean, white cotton fabric (like an old handkerchief or a piece of calico).
• How to use it: You place it on top of your garment before you put the iron down.
• Why use it?
  1. It prevents “shine” on dark fabrics.
  2. It protects delicate fabrics (like silk) from melting.
  3. If you are using steam, it helps spread the moisture evenly.

The Tailor’s Ham (Pressing Curves)

Humans are not flat boards. We have shoulders, busts, and hips. If you try to press a curved seam (like a sleeve) on a flat ironing board, you will create unwanted creases.

• What it is: A firm, bone-shaped cushion stuffed tightly with sawdust or scraps. One side is usually cotton (for high heat) and the other is wool (for lower heat).
• How to use it: You slide the “Ham” inside the curved part of the dress (like the shoulder) and press the iron over the curve.
• The Result: The garment keeps its beautiful, rounded shape.

Special Tools: The Seam Roll and Clapper

Sometimes the “Ham” is too big. That’s when we use these helpers:

1. Seam Roll: It looks like a long, thin sausage. You put it inside a sleeve or a narrow trouser leg so you can press the seam open without the iron touching the other side of the sleeve.
2. The Clapper: A heavy block of smooth wood. After you steam a seam, you press the Clapper down on it while it’s still hot. The wood “claps” the heat and steam into the fabric, making the flattest, sharpest edges you’ve ever seen!

Safety and Heat Settings

An iron is a dangerous tool if you don’t respect it. Always check the “Fiber Content” of your fabric before you set the temperature.

• Low Heat: For Synthetics (Polyester, Nylon). They melt easily!
• Medium Heat: For Silk and Wool.
• High Heat: For Cotton and Linen. These need lots of heat and steam to get the wrinkles out.

Workshop Safety Tips:

• Always stand the iron on its “heel” when not in use.
• Keep the water tank of your steam iron clean so it doesn’t “spit” brown water on white fabric.
• Always unplug at the wall when you are done for the day.

Teacher’s Practical Tip: If you don’t have a professional pressing cloth, a piece of plain white paper can work in an emergency for small areas—but a real cotton cloth is always better!