Machine Stitches SS1 Fashion and Garment Making Lesson Note

The Straight Stitch (The King of Stitches)

The Straight Stitch is the most basic and frequently used stitch in the world. If you look at your shirt or trousers right now, 90% of the sewing you see is the straight stitch.

• How it works: The machine pulls the top thread and the bobbin thread together in a perfectly straight line.
• Adjusting Length: You can change how long the stitches are using the Stitch Regulator dial.
  1. Short Stitches (1.5mm – 2mm): Used for fine fabrics or areas that need to be very strong.
  2. Medium Stitches (2.5mm): The “standard” setting for almost everything.
  3. Long Stitches (4mm+): Used for “basting” (temporary machine sewing) or for making gathers/ruffles.

The Zigzag Stitch (The Versatile Helper)

The Zigzag Stitch moves the needle from side to side as the fabric moves forward. It looks like a series of “W” or “Z” shapes.

Why do we use it?

1. Neatening Edges: If you don’t have an “overlocking” machine, you can zigzag the raw edges of your fabric to stop them from fraying (unraveling).
2. Sewing Stretchy Fabric: Because the stitch has a “bend” in it, it can stretch without snapping. This makes it perfect for sewing jersey or knitted fabrics.
3. Appliqué: This is when you sew a piece of fabric (like a flower shape) onto another piece of fabric. The zigzag “locks” the edges down flat.

Decorative Stitches (The “Beauty” Stitches)

Many modern machines come with built-in patterns. These aren’t usually for holding the dress together; they are for making it look pretty.

• Types: Some machines can do hearts, leaves, diamonds, or “satin stitches” (very thick, close zigzags).
• Where to use them:
  1. On the collars of shirts.
  2. Along the hem of a baby’s dress.
  3. On the pockets of jeans.
• The Secret: To make decorative stitches look good, you often need to use a “stabilizer” (a thin piece of paper or stiff fabric) underneath so the stitches don’t bunch up the cloth.

Specialized Machine Stitches

Depending on the machine in our workshop, you might also see these options:

1. The Buttonhole Stitch: This is a series of very tight zigzag stitches that the machine does in a rectangular shape to create a hole for a button.
2. The Blind Hem Stitch: This is a tricky stitch that “jump-stitches” into the fabric every few steps. It mimics the hand-hemming stitch we learned earlier, making the hem nearly invisible from the outside.
3. The Triple Stitch (Stretch Stitch): The machine goes forward-backward-forward. This makes the seam extremely strong and very stretchy.

How to Get Perfect Stitches

Even a great machine can produce “ugly” stitches if you aren’t careful. Here is how to ensure your work looks professional:

• Check the Tension: If the stitches look like they are looping on the top or bottom, your tension is wrong. Adjust the dial until the “knot” where the two threads meet is hidden inside the fabric.
• The “Start and Stop” Rule: Always leave about 4 inches of thread “tail” when you start and stop. Use the Reverse Lever at the beginning and end of every seam to “lock” your stitches so they don’t unravel.
• Guide the Fabric: Don’t pull or push the fabric! Let the Feed Dogs do the work. Your job is just to keep the fabric straight so the needle stays on track.

Class Practical: Today, we will take a “Practice Sheet” (a piece of paper with lines drawn on it). Without any thread in the machine, you will “sew” along the straight lines and then the zigzag lines to practice your steering!