Basic Sewing II – What Makes a Stitch Permanent? SS1 Fashion and Garment Making Lesson Note

What makes a Stitch “Permanent”?

Unlike tacking or basting, Permanent Stitches are not meant to be removed. They are the stitches that make the seams of your skirt, the hem of your trousers, and the attachment of your buttons.

Because these stitches stay forever, they must be:

1. Strong: They shouldn’t snap when you sit down or move.
2. Neat: Since people will see them (especially on the inside or at the hem), they must be even.
3. Secure: We always start and end with a “backstitch” or a knot so the thread doesn’t just pull out.

The Backstitch (The Strongest Hand Stitch)

If you don’t have a sewing machine, the Backstitch is your best friend. It is the strongest stitch you can make by hand because each stitch “overlaps” the one before it.

• How it looks: On the top, it looks exactly like a straight line from a sewing machine. On the back, the stitches look long and overlap each other.
• When to use it: Use it for seams that need to be very strong, like the crotch of trousers or attaching a zipper.
• How to do it: Bring the needle up through the fabric, go backward a small distance, and then come up a stitch-length ahead of where you started.

The Running Stitch (Quick and Simple)

The Running Stitch is the most basic stitch in sewing. It is exactly like “even tacking,” but the stitches are much, much smaller and closer together.

• Characteristics: It is fast to sew but not as strong as the backstitch.
• When to use it: * For making “Gathers” (like the ruffles on a puff sleeve).
  1. For mending small tears.
  2. For decorative “top-stitching” on the outside of a garment.
• Tip: To make it strong, keep your stitches about 2mm long and very close together.

The Hemming Stitch (The Invisible Helper)

When you fold the bottom of a skirt or shirt, that fold is called a Hem. We use the Hemming Stitch to hold that fold in place.

• Goal: A good hemming stitch should be almost invisible on the “right side” (the outside) of the cloth.
• How it’s done: You catch only one or two threads of the main fabric and then pass the needle through the edge of the folded hem.
• When to use it: On the bottom of skirts, dresses, and sleeves.
• The Secret: If you use a thread that matches your fabric color perfectly, the stitches will “disappear.”

Finishing and Fastening Off

Even the best stitches will fall apart if you don’t “lock” them at the end. In the workshop, we call this Fastening Off.

1. Beginning: Always start with a small, secure knot. Or, better yet, make two tiny stitches in the same place (one on top of the other) before you start moving forward.
2. Ending: When you reach the end of your seam, don’t just cut the thread! Make two or three tiny “Backstitches” in the same spot. Then, pass your needle through the last loop of thread to create a knot and pull it tight.
3. Trimming: Use your embroidery scissors to cut the thread close to the fabric, but be careful not to cut the fabric itself!

Teacher’s Tip: When practicing these stitches, use a piece of “calico” or plain cotton. It is easier to see your progress on plain fabric than on a busy Ankara print!