Revision of Major Skills SS3 Fashion and Garment Making Lesson Note

Subject: Fashion and Garment Making 

Class: SS3

The Foundation (Measuring and Cutting)

If you get the measurements wrong, the construction will never be right. You can be the best at sewing, but if the dress doesn’t fit, it’s a failure.

1. Critical Measurements Recap

• The “Hustle” Points: Always double-check the across-back, the bust point, and the hip depth.
• Ease: Remind yourself to add “ease” (extra space) so the customer can actually breathe and sit down in the dress.

2. Cutting Discipline

• Grainline: Always follow the grain of the fabric. If you cut “off-grain,” the cloth will twist on the customer’s body after the first wash.
• Seam Allowance: Be consistent. If you use 1 inch for the sides, stick to it throughout the garment.

Stitches and Seams (The Joints)

Seams are the “glue” of your garment. They must be strong and neat.

1. The Plain Seam The most common. Put right sides together and sew. But remember: Press it open! A flat seam is the mark of a professional.
2. The French Seam This is for thin, see-through fabrics like chiffon or silk. You sew the wrong sides first, trim, and then flip to sew the right sides. It hides all the raw edges inside.
3. Finishing the Edges

• Neatening: Use an overlocking machine (zigzag) or bias binding.
• Why it matters: It prevents the cloth from fraying and makes the inside of the dress look as beautiful as the outside.

Controlling Fullness (Darts, Pleats, and Gathers)

Fabric is flat, but humans are curvy. We use these techniques to make the fabric fit the body.

1. Darts

• Darts move the fabric in to fit the waist or the bust.
• Revision Tip: Always sew from the wide end to the point. Never “backstitch” at the point of a dart; instead, tie a small knot with the thread so it doesn’t create a “poker” look on the chest.

2. Gathers

• Use two rows of long stitches. Pull them gently to create even bunches.
• Common Mistake: Don’t let all the gathers bunch up in one spot; spread them out evenly across the waist or sleeve.

3. Pleats

• Whether they are Box pleats or Knife pleats, they must be ironed crisp. Use pins to hold them in place before you take them to the machine.

Facings, Collars, and Sleeves

These are the parts that people see first. They must be “sharp.”

1. Facings and Interlining

• Use “Stay” or “Interfacing” on necklines and collars. It keeps them from sagging or stretching out of shape.
• Understitching: After sewing a facing, sew the seam allowance to the facing. This stops the facing from “peeping out” when the person is wearing the dress.

2. Setting the Sleeve

• A sleeve should never have “tucks” at the shoulder (unless it’s a puff sleeve).
• The Trick: Sew a “gathering stitch” around the sleeve head and pull it slightly to “ease” it into the armhole.

3. Collars

• The corners must be sharp. Use a small pair of scissors to trim the excess fabric inside the corner before flipping it out.

Fasteners and Final Finishes

The “Small Things” that make a garment functional.

1. Zips (The Hidden and the Visible)

• Lapped Zips: Used on the side of skirts.
• Invisbile Zips: The “designer” choice. You shouldn’t see the zip teeth at all when the dress is closed.

2. Hemming

• The hem is the bottom edge. For high-quality work, use a “Blind Stitch” (hand-sewn) so that no thread shows on the outside.
• For casual wear, a machine top-stitch is fine, but it must be perfectly straight.

3. The Final Press

• Clip all loose threads.
• Give the whole garment a “final steam.” This removes all the wrinkles from the sewing process and makes the fabric “settle.”

Summary for the Student: Revision is about correcting bad habits. Go back to the basics: measure twice, cut once, press every seam, and never rush the finishing. Your skill is your signature!