Advanced Pattern Drafting SS2 Fashion and Garment Making Lesson Note

Introduction to Combination Styles

In our previous lessons, we learned how to draft basic blocks—the bodice, the skirt, and the sleeve. Now, we are entering the world of Combination Styles.

What is a Combination Style? It is the art of merging two or more different design elements into one single garment. Instead of just a “plain gown,” you might combine a Peplum with a Mermaid skirt, or a Corset top with Bishop sleeves.

Why do we combine styles?

1. Originality: It helps you create clothes that aren’t found in every shop.
2. Fit: Sometimes, a combination is needed to better suit a specific body type.
3. Function: Combining a jacket style with a dress style makes for a great “Boss Lady” corporate outfit.

Key Elements of Design Integration

Before you pick up your brown paper and shears, you need to understand which parts of a dress can be swapped or combined.

1. The Necklines You can move away from basic round necks. Think about combining a Sweetheart neckline with a High-neck lace overlay.
2. The Waistlines This is where the magic happens. You can have:

• Empress line: The seam is just below the bust.
• Basque waist: A “V” or “U” shape at the waist that makes the torso look longer.

3. The Skirt Variations Combining a straight pencil skirt with a flared attachment at the bottom creates the popular Six-piece or Mermaid look.

Drafting the “Padded Blouse” Combination

One of the most popular combination styles in modern fashion is the Princess Dart with a Padded Cup (Bustier). This combines the classic princess seam with structural padding.

Steps to Draft:

1. Trace your Basic Bodice: Start with your standard front block.
2. Locate the Apex: Mark your “bust point” (the nipple point).
3. The Curve: Draw a smooth, curved line from the middle of the armhole down to the bust point, and then straight down to the waist dart.
4. The “Cut-out”: To create the padded effect, you subtract about 1.5cm to 2cm from the side of the dart to create a “cup” shape.

Pro Tip: Always label your pieces “Center Front” (CF) and “Side Front” (SF) so you don’t get them mixed up after cutting!

Advanced Sleeve Combinations

The sleeve can change the entire “vibe” of an outfit. Advanced drafting often involves combining a fitted sleeve with a flared one.

The “Tiered” or “Layered” Sleeve:

• Draft a basic short sleeve.
• Draft two or three circular “flares” (peplums) of different lengths.
• The Combination: Attach these layers to the edge of the short sleeve.

The Puff-and-Fit Sleeve: This combines a gathered “puff” at the shoulder with a tight, fitted look from the elbow to the wrist. It gives a Victorian, royal feel to any blouse.

Practical Guide & Troubleshooting

When you start combining styles, things can get a bit tricky. Here are a few “Golden Rules” to keep your sewing neat:

1. Matching Seam Allowances If you cut a bodice into three pieces to create a new style, you must add seam allowances (usually 1.5cm) to every new edge you created. If you forget, the blouse will be too small!
2. The “Walk” Test Before cutting your fabric, take your paper patterns and “walk” the seams together. Does the side of the front match the side of the back? If one is longer than the other, trim it on the paper first.
3. Balance If the top of your dress is very busy (e.g., ruffles and big sleeves), keep the bottom simple. If the bottom is a massive ball gown, keep the top sleek.

Summary Task: Look at a photo of a complex traditional outfit (like an Aso-Ebi style). Try to identify the three basic patterns that were combined to make it.